Shimano CUES rear derailleur, LINKGLIDE chain and BR-U8000 brake service

Which CUES rear derailleur you have

Shimano splits the CUES rear derailleurs into two manuals, and the setup differs between them, so check your model number first.

• DM-LARD002 family: RD-U2000, RD-U4000, RD-U4010, RD-U6000, RD-U8000. You set the B-screw by eye, lining up the cage plate with the tallest tooth on the largest sprocket.
• DM-LARD003 family: RD-U3020, RD-U4020, RD-U6020, RD-U8020. You set the B-screw to a measured gap, or with the TL-RD200 G-pulley setting tool. The RD-U6020 comes as RD-U6020-11 and RD-U6020-10.

RD-U8000 and RD-U6000 have a switch lever (ON/OFF) and a chain stabilizer with a roller clutch under a cover on the cage. The RD-U4000 parts list has no stabilizer parts. DM-LARD003 gives the switch lever and stabilizer steps for its whole family. If your derailleur has no switch lever, skip any step that mentions it.

RD-U8000 and RD-U6000 take different pulley sets: Y3JD98080 for RD-U8000, Y3JF98010 for RD-U6000 and RD-U4000.

The shifters come in two cable port types. SL-U8000, SL-U6001, SL-U4001 and SL-U4011 have a sliding cap over the cable port. SL-U6000, SL-U6050, SL-U4000, SL-U4010 and SL-U4050 have a screw-in cap. Model numbers ending in -L or -IL are left-hand levers; SL-U8000-IL and SL-U8000-11IR are I-SPEC II versions that clamp to the brake lever.

CUES specifications

Torque figures

The standard shifter clamp screw has two different torque values in DM-LASL001, one for SL-U8000 and one for the other SL-U models. Check the drawing in the shift lever installation section for the value that applies to your shifter. On carbon handlebars, Shimano says to confirm the torque with the bar maker.

Install the rear derailleur

Before you start: check the hanger with TL-RD11. A bent hanger stops the derailleur shifting properly whatever you adjust.

1. If the derailleur has a switch lever, turn it to OFF. Leave it OFF for fitting and all adjustment. It goes back ON for riding, where it cuts chain slap and dropped chains.

2. Thread the mounting screw (DM-LARD002 models) or B-axle (DM-LARD003 models) in straight, not at an angle. The stopper plate must sit against the B-tension stop on the hanger with no gap.

3. Tighten to 8–10 N·m with a torque wrench.

   From DM-LARD002 and DM-LARD003, installation of the rear derailleur

4. Check now and then that no gap has opened at the stopper plate. A gap upsets shifting and can scratch or dent the hanger.

Check chain length

The starting point is different for the two families. For DM-LARD002 derailleurs, wrap the chain over the largest sprocket only and bring the ends together at the back of the cassette. For DM-LARD003 derailleurs, wrap it over the largest sprocket and the largest chainring. Then add the links below.

1. On a full suspension bike, size the chain with the suspension fully extended. Then put the chain on the big chainring and largest sprocket, compress the suspension to where the chainstay is longest, and check the chain is not too short. A chain that is too short overloads and damages the drivetrain.

2. Run the chain on the derailleur body side of the plate inside the cage that stops the chain coming off.

   From DM-LARD002 and DM-LARD003, checking the chain length

3. Fit CN-LG500 with the marked side facing out.

4. To shorten the chain, seat it properly in the chain tool and push the pin all the way out. Never cut at a QUICK-LINK or at a reinforced connecting pin.

5. Join with a new SM-CN900-11 QUICK-LINK, arrow pointing the way the chain moves when you pedal, seen from the drive side, with both pins pushed fully home. Or use a reinforced connecting pin, pushed in from the same side you used the chain tool, then snap off the extra length. The pin should sit slightly proud.

   From DM-CN0002, cutting and connecting the chain

Never reuse a QUICK-LINK you have taken off; fit a new one, and use a new one with a new chain. Removing it needs TL-CN10. More on this in how to set chain length.

Fit or replace the shift cable

Before you start: keep the rear wheel still while you clamp the cable and crimp the end cap.

1. Loosen the cable fixing bolt on the derailleur.

2. Put the shifter in its starting position by pushing the release lever 10 or more times on 11-speed, 9 or more on 10-speed, or 8 or more on 9-speed.

3. Sliding cap shifters (SL-U8000, SL-U6001, SL-U4001, SL-U4011): slide the cable port cap open, pull out the old cable, feed in the new one and slide the cap closed. On the SL-U8000-L left lever, the cover fixing screw goes back at 0.3 N·m.

4. Screw cap shifters (SL-U6000, SL-U6050, SL-U4000, SL-U4010, SL-U4050): unscrew the cap, swap the cable, then turn the cap back only as far as the stop shown in the manual. Forcing it further can strip the thread.

   From DM-LASL001, replacing the inner cable

5. Use a 1.2 mm OPTISLICK inner cable and SP41 4 mm casing. Grease with SIS SP41 grease only; do not put Premium Grease on shift cables. SL-U4000, SL-U4001, SL-U4010, SL-U4011 and SL-U4050 can use only the resin sealed outer cap (type B).

6. At the derailleur, back the B-screw out until the stopper plate touches the bracket body with no gap.

7. Size the casing: hold a sealed outer cap to the bottom of the casing holder on the derailleur and leave some slack. On a full suspension bike, size it at the point in the travel where the casing needs to be longest, and use the aluminum sealed cap at the derailleur.

8. Cut the casing with TL-CT12, round off the cut end, fit the sealed cap and route the cable. At a frame stop, fit the sealed cap with tongue and the rubber shield. Do not bend the tongue. With full-length casing you do not need these.

9. Clamp the cable. Hold the derailleur still and work the shifter several times to seat the casing and caps. Then loosen, pull the cable taut in the clamp groove and tighten to 6–7 N·m.

   From DM-LARD002, securing the inner cable

10. Cut the cable leaving about 20 mm, fit an inner end cap and check it cannot touch the spokes. Then set the B-screw and indexing.

Set the limit screws and B-screw

1. High limit: on the smallest sprocket, look from behind and turn the high limit screw until the center of the guide pulley lines up with the outer face of the smallest sprocket.

   From DM-LARD002, stroke adjustment (top)

2. Low limit: shift to the largest sprocket and turn the low limit screw until the center of the guide pulley lines up with the center of the largest sprocket.

   From DM-LARD002, stroke adjustment (low)

B-screw on RD-U2000, RD-U4000, RD-U4010, RD-U6000 and RD-U8000

1. Shift to the largest sprocket. If the cage hits a sprocket on the way, tighten the B-screw first.

2. RD-U8000, RD-U6000 and RD-U4000: turn the B-screw until the line on the inside of the outer cage plate lines up with the tip of the tallest tooth on the largest sprocket.

3. RD-U2000 and RD-U4010: line up the edge of the outer cage plate with that tooth tip instead.

   From DM-LARD002, adjusting the end adjust bolt

B-screw on RD-U3020, RD-U4020, RD-U6020 and RD-U8020

Shift to the smallest chainring and the largest sprocket and measure from the tip of the guide pulley to the tip of a tooth on the largest sprocket.

• Double chainring: 9 mm (RD-U8020 and RD-U6020 with 11-speed 11-45T, RD-U6020 with 10-speed 11-39T, RD-U4020 and RD-U3020 with 9-speed 11-36T).
• Single chainring: 19 mm for RD-U8020 or RD-U6020 with 11-speed 11-45T; 24 mm for RD-U4020 or RD-U3020 with 9-speed 11-36T. For any other setup, including RD-U6020 10-speed on a single ring, check the table in DM-LARD003 or use the TL-RD200.

To set it with the TL-RD200 tool:

1. Set the slider on the tool so the window shows your crankset and cassette.

2. Use the B-screw to open up the gap between the guide pulley and the largest sprocket.

3. Hang the tool on the largest sprocket: from behind for 11-speed, from the front for 9-speed, either way for 10-speed. Keep it off the stepped parts of the sprocket.

4. Back the B-screw out until the notch on the tool meets the guide pulley screw.

5. Turn the cranks forward to release the tool.

   From DM-LARD003, adjusting the end adjust bolt

On both families, pull the derailleur back while you turn the B-screw so the screw is not loaded against the stopper plate. Shift through all the gears afterward, and redo the B-screw whenever you change the cassette.

Adjust the indexing

1. Turn the switch lever to OFF if there is one.

2. Shift to a sprocket 5 to 7 steps from the largest. On a double, use the big chainring.

3. If the chain already rubs the next larger sprocket, turn the barrel adjuster clockwise until it goes quiet.

4. While pedaling, turn the barrel adjuster counterclockwise until the chain just starts to rub the next larger sprocket.

5. Turn the barrel adjuster clockwise 5 clicks (3 clicks on RD-U2000). The DM-LARD003 derailleurs also take 5 clicks.

   From DM-LARD002 and DM-LARD003, SIS adjustment

6. Shift through every gear while pedaling. If you hear noise, start again from step 2.

7. Turn the switch lever back to ON and test ride for smooth, quiet shifting.

If the shifting will not come right, check the hanger alignment, cable grease and casing length before adjusting further. For the general method, see how to adjust a rear derailleur.

LINKGLIDE chain and cassette compatibility

LINKGLIDE parts only work with the combinations Shimano lists. Its manuals say other products cannot be used because the specifications do not match. Check your combination on Shimano's compatibility chart before buying parts.

• CS-LG700, CS-LG400, CS-LG300 and CS-RS400 cassettes must run with CN-LG500 or an HG-X 11-speed chain. Other chains do not fit.
• CN-LG500 goes on marked side out and joins with SM-CN900-11 or a 5.8 mm reinforced connecting pin. Shimano lists TL-CN28, TL-CN29, TL-CN34 and TL-CN35 chain tools for it.

Check spoke clearance with 11-speed LINKGLIDE

With an 11-speed LINKGLIDE cassette, the derailleur can hit the spokes. Either check the frame and wheel against the dimension table in DM-LARD002, or fit another cassette and measure from the tooth bottom of its largest sprocket to the spokes:

Fit and remove the cassette

1. Fit the sprockets largest first, lining up the one wide spline, with the marks facing out. Tighten the lock ring to 30–50 N·m.

   From DM-LACS001, installation

2. To remove it, hold the cassette with TL-SR23 or TL-SR24 on a sprocket smaller than the middle one. Holding a bigger one is unstable. Wear gloves and eye protection and push gradually.

   From DM-LACS001, removal

Grease the chain stabilizer and set its friction

This is for derailleurs with a switch lever (RD-U8000, RD-U6000 and the DM-LARD003 models that have one). Do it when the clutch feels different or starts to make noise.

1. Turn the switch lever to OFF. Remove the plate unit cover, then lift out the cam unit and chain stabilizer.

2. Apply stabilizer grease (Y04121000) to the outer surface of the roller clutch only. Grease inside the clutch makes it slip or stick.

3. Refit the stabilizer, cam and cover. Tighten the cover screws to 1–1.5 N·m.

   From DM-LARD002, applying grease to the chain stabilizer

4. To check friction, turn the switch lever to ON and remove the cover. Turn the friction adjustment screw gently, always with less than 0.25 N·m.

5. Put a torque wrench with a hexalobular bit on the outer plate and check the friction reads 4.4–5.4 N·m. Adjust and recheck, then refit the cover at 1–1.5 N·m.

   From DM-LARD002, adjusting friction

If you take the cage plate off to replace the P-tension spring or switch lever: grease only the marked area of the plate axle with Premium Grease, tighten the plate axle to 7.8–9.8 N·m, seat the plate unit fully before fitting the cover (a poor seal causes corrosion), grease the cover gasket and seat it in its groove, and fit the stopper pin at 1 N·m. The switch lever should feel some resistance going to ON. If it does not, the cam is in the wrong position; take it apart and refit it.

Replace the pulleys

1. Remove the pulley screws and swap the guide and tension pulleys. Where the pulleys have arrows, point them the way they turn when you pedal forward. Some have no direction.

2. Tighten the pulley screws to 2.5–5 N·m.

   From DM-LARD002 and DM-LARD003, replacing the pulleys

Replace pulleys that have enough play to make noise. Pulley sets are listed under parts.

BR-U8000 and BL-U8000 brake pads and bleeding

BR-U8000, BR-U8010, BR-U8020 and BL-U8000 use SHIMANO Hydraulic Mineral Oil. Never mix it with SHIMANO Low Viscosity Oil, and never put any other fluid in these brakes. Use oil from a clean, sealed bottle.

Oil and pads: pads that have touched oil must be replaced. Clean up oil with isopropyl alcohol or a dry cloth, not brake cleaner. Wear gloves and eye protection and work somewhere with fresh air.

Replace the brake pads

Replace pads when they are contaminated, when the thinnest part is down to 0.5 mm, or when the pad spring touches the rotor. Replace the rotor at 1.5 mm or if the aluminum shows.

1. Remove the wheel, the retaining clip and the pad axle, and take out the pads. Clean the pistons and the area around them.

2. Set the lever so the bleed screw is level. Remove the bleed screw and O-ring and screw in the TL-BR003 oil funnel, without the stopper.

3. Push both pistons straight back as far as they go with a flat tool, never a sharp one. Having the funnel fitted protects the diaphragm in the lever.

4. If the funnel is empty, add oil. Fit the yellow bleed spacer, pump the lever a few times, then take the spacer out.

5. Plug the funnel with the oil stopper, remove the funnel and refit the bleed screw and O-ring. Tighten to 0.5–1 N·m with a torque wrench.

6. Fit the pad spring to the new pads (watch the L and R marks), slide them in and fit the pad axle. Tighten the pad axle to 1–1.5 N·m with a torque wrench, then fit the clip.

   From DM-LADBR01, replacing brake pads

7. Fit the red pad spacer and pump the lever until it is firm. Remove the spacer, refit the wheel and spin it to check the rotor does not rub.

8. Test before riding: squeeze the lever hard. It must be firm and must not reach the bar. Then bed the pads in on a flat, safe road: speed up to a moderate pace and brake to walking pace, one brake at a time, at least 20 times per brake.

Bleed BR-U8000 with mineral oil

Change the oil when it is clearly discolored. You need the TL-BR001 syringe and tube, the TL-BR003 funnel and stopper, a 7 mm box wrench and a torque wrench. BR-U8010 has a bleed screw instead of a nipple; the differences are given in the steps.

1. Remove the wheel and pads and fit the yellow bleed spacer in the caliper. Put the bike in a stand with the lever level. Remove the lever bleed screw and O-ring and fit the funnel without the stopper.

2. BR-U8000: remove the nipple cap, put the 7 mm box wrench on the bleed nipple, connect the syringe full of oil and open the nipple a quarter turn. BR-U8010: remove the caps, connect the syringe to the bleed boss and open the bleed screw half a turn.

3. Push oil up until no more bubbles come out into the funnel. Do not touch the lever while you fill; if you do, drain the oil and start again. Close the nipple for now.

4. Swap the syringe for a tube and bag. Open the nipple and let oil and bubbles run out on their own. Tap the hose, lever and caliper gently to free bubbles, and keep the funnel topped up. Close the nipple for now.

5. Hold the lever squeezed and open and close the nipple quickly, about half a second each time, 2 to 3 times. Then tighten the nipple to 4–6 N·m with a torque wrench. Remove the tube, wipe the caliper and refit the caps.

6. Pump the lever until no more bubbles rise in the funnel and the lever feels firm. If it does not get firm, go back to step 3. Tilt the lever 30° up and repeat, then 30° down and repeat.

7. Bring the lever back to level. Plug the funnel with the stopper, O-ring side down, and remove the funnel and stopper together.

8. Refit the bleed screw with its O-ring so a little oil overflows as it seats. Tighten to 0.5–1 N·m without touching the lever. Wipe off all spilled oil.

   From DM-LADBR01, mineral oil replacement

9. Remove the bleed spacer and fit the pads as in pad replacement. Refit the wheel and do the same brake test before riding: firm lever, no rub, then bed in.

To drain old oil, set up the same way, fit the tube and bag to the caliper and open the nipple or bleed screw. Pumping the lever speeds it up. If the lever goes soft after any hose work, bleed the brake. See also bleeding mineral oil brakes and replacing disc brake pads.

Caliper fitting: on post mount, fit the caliper loosely, squeeze the lever to center it, then tighten the screws to 6–8 N·m and fit the snap rings on the screw heads. On flat mount, tighten all screws to 6–8 N·m, doing the frame screws a little at a time, one after the other.

Parts and consumables

Tools

• 2 mm, 2.5 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm and 5 mm hex wrenches, cross head screwdriver #2, Hexalobular #27
• Torque wrench (values on this page run from 0.2 N·m to 50 N·m)
• TL-RD11 hanger alignment tool
• TL-RD200 G-pulley setting tool (DM-LARD003 derailleurs)
• TL-CT12 cable cutter
• TL-CN28, TL-CN29, TL-CN34 or TL-CN35 chain tool; TL-CN10 QUICK-LINK tool
• TL-LR10 or TL-LR15 lock ring tool, TL-SR23 or TL-SR24 sprocket remover, adjustable wrench
• TL-BR001 syringe and tube, TL-BR003 oil funnel and stopper, 7 mm box wrench
• TL-BH62 hose tool, TL-FC36 rotor lock ring tool

Troubleshooting by symptom

Shifting cannot be adjusted to run quietly

Check the hanger with TL-RD11, grease the cable and check the casing is not too long or short. Then redo the indexing.

Derailleur cage touches the spokes

This can happen with 11-speed LINKGLIDE cassettes. Do the spoke clearance check.

Chain slaps or falls off on rough ground

Check the switch lever is ON. If the clutch feels weak or noisy, grease it and check the friction.

No resistance when turning the switch lever to ON after a rebuild

The cam is in the wrong position. Take the cover off and refit the cam as in the stabilizer section.

Noise from the cage

Check the pulleys for play and replace them if loose.

Chain keeps skipping

Check the chain and cassette are a listed LINKGLIDE combination. If it still skips, Shimano says to take it to a bike shop.

Lever squeezed with the wheel out, pads now touching

The pistons have come out too far. Fit the oil funnel and push them back with a flat tool, as in pad replacement.

Brake lever feels soft

There is air in the system, often after hose work. Bleed the brake.

Related: Shimano Deore M6100, Shimano MT200 brakes, Adjust a rear derailleur, Set chain length, Bleed mineral oil brakes, Replace disc brake pads